It’s a week since I left Valencia, and my heart
and stomach are still in mourning. It's the city where I fell in love, with food, and it's not surprising given the quality of sun kissed produce and the amazing food culture. When I was little, my cousin and I would get all
the takeaway menus out, and imagine our dream meal. It’s a habit
I’ve yet to grow out of. So with the help of these pictures my friend
Iain took, journey through one perfect day of eating - blue sky, light breeze, palm trees
and beautiful streets animated with friends eating and drinking together…
07:00: Mercado Central (desayuno - breakfast)
The Sistine Chapel of food, Mercado Central, is a hive of
coffee fuelled activity. Before you, mountains are made of vegetables, jamon
sliced and poultry pounded. Perch next to a truck driver at the ringside bar. He will most likely be tucking into a hearty lunch with wine. Valencia’s croissants are light, sugar glazed,
sometimes toasted and always perplexingly accompanied by a knife and fork. They
are perfect dipped in café con leche (nice milky breakfast coffee). In truth,
desayunos here don’t differ much, but the atmosphere you can eat it in does,
and this is the place to be. Afterwards take your second breakfast, the slices
of queso (cheese) and jamon you are rewarded with whilst queuing at the amazing stalls.
Leave as the sun rises and the flower stalls open for business. Perfection.
11:00: Bar Esmas (almuerzo - elevenses)
Right in the centre of town, this local bar is an absolute steal. For less than four euros they must have the biggest and most competitive almuerzo. A giant bocadillo stuffed with tortilla de patata (crispy tortilla filled baguette), a cold cerveza (beer), manzanilla aceitunas (olives),
freshly fried cacahuates (peanuts) followed by a cortado (shot of coffee with a
flash of hot milk). I love it that this isn't even lunch! It’s the type of place my dad would call ‘transport’, but get a table
outside with the sun on your face and wait for the smug smile sweep across it, the one that says: 'I'm in Spain!'.
Cruz Nueva,
6 Valencia, 46002
(open more or less from 8:00-22:00 daily)
14:30: Casa Carmina (comida - lunch)
Oh Paella, I miss you. Succulent grains of rice infused with
the flavours of the countryside. It’s the dish that brings families together,
if you can’t find a family to make it for you, go to Casa Carmina. It’s a family
run restaurant hidden in El Saler, my favourite southern pueblo (village) of
Valencia. They are made to order so call ahead. Walk up
an appetite on the beach, then mosey through the pine forest till you
arrive at the welcoming salon, where they are waiting to introduce you to your
paella valenciana. One spoon of this and you’ll want to marry a local and stay forever.
19:00: Horchateria Santa Catalina (merienda - afternoon snack)
After a meaty paella, nothing is better than a cold sweet
horchata and farton to revive you. Santa Catalina, with chandeliers, black and
white floors and marble topped tables is a class act. Though trying to make your horchata
last longer than one minute is mean feat. Dip your light farton into the elixir and slurp. Indulgent yet light, it cleverly leaves room for you to enjoy
dinner later, but you’ll be feeling satisfied and like you’ve just taken part in a Valencian ritual.
22:00: Casa Montaña (cena - dinner)
An epic tapas menu awaits. In summer they have clochinas, tiny mussels from the Med and
in early spring, habas, succulent stewed broad beans in a pork wonder sauce.
It’s a dream. The jamon, oh the jamon, iberico 100% bellota which means the pigs have a diet of acorns making it deliciously buttery. It melts in your mouth just like the homemade truffles they have for desert. The casa is nestled amongst colourful tiled houses, in the
fisherman barrio, glimmering with faded grandeur and plenty of edge. I haven’t
even gotten to the wines, the decor, the charming service... Delighting in these
exquisite morsels can’t fail but rouse the senses and prepare you for a late
night, because it’s always a late night in Spain.
Fork notes:
- Coffee notes; café con leche – milky, cortado – expresso with a little milk, café solo – expresso.
- Nostre Bar in Ruzafa was my equal choice for dinner. The owner/waiter/sommelier will lead you through stunning meat plates and wine in this cosy eccentric place.
- If you are hungry between these five meals, you often get free montaditos (toasts with a little something) when you buy a beer, so find your nearest cerveceria and relax.
- I've linked the titles of each eatery with the weblink, so if you are interested, click them.
