Feeding more than five thousand: Fallas Fare

I’m writing from bed. I’m halfway through Fallas, Valencia’s beyond EPIC festival, and I’ve already eaten (and drunk) enough to last me till summer. As I type, Falleras and Falleros, members of social clubs (Fallas) from the region of Valencia are promenading outside my window. They are part of the Ofrenda de Flores, and they are taking flowers to the Virgin, an enormous wooden Virgin Mary whose dress is currently being constructed of these bouquets. Brass Bands are thundering away and the sun picks out every sequin on the ornate traditional costumes. Day and night spectacularly impressive firework displays make your heart pound and mouth fall open. It’s as if Gandalf was employed by the City Council to add some sparkle. The air swirls with gunpowder, music, and the smell of fried dough.

 

I was astounded at the number of Churros stalls that appeared one morning. They flank every corner (I’m serious) and they all serve the same thing. Though it's beginning to become clear to me, if you want to party like a Valencian you need to eat like one. Here is my breakdown of fallas food (in order of preference).

Buñuelos:

A doughnut cross churros hybrid, so evolved it takes the best of both. A puffy soft centre flecked with pumpkin and a crispy fried outside covered in sugar. They sell them by the dozen or half dozen. You can dunk them in chocolate, and they are delicious freshly fried like churros or cold like a doughnut. Hands down my favourite.

Porras:

Like one enormously thick churro, curled like a serpent, which is then cut into easier to eat pieces. Dense, rich and delicious. Made for dipping into hot creamy chocolate. (see one being made in the photo below)

Churros:

Lighter crispier tubes of fried dough. Perfect for dunking, and disappear too easily. After eating the others, you will think of these as the healthier version.

Churros Rellenos:

A giant churro filled with flavoured cream, so intimidating, I haven’t even tried one yet. Though if I continue in this fashion, I’ll be all over them by Monday.

Fork notes:

• You can get buñuelos with or without pumpkin, but the pumpkin ones are extra amaze.
•  Be careful when ordering porras, as porros is marijuana. Just saying.
•  Quality varies from stall to stall. I tend to follow the grannies, they are wise about such things. The oil should be fresh, any doubts, walk on.
• There will be mountains of churros etc ready to go but if you have time ask for a fresh batch, it will be worth the wait.
•  A bit like buying chippy chips you’ll be asked if you want sugar. No brainer, though a pinch of salt in the mix goes down a treat.
• I saw a gluten free stall today.